My passage through Tehran in 1979 as documented on Apr 19, 2025
Revolution Paused as Society Drowns in Public Grievances
Ah, 1979 Tehran—a bustling city of layered histories and contradictions, poised on the knife-edge of revolution. Yet here, this momentous day is punctuated not only by cries for justice but also by a festival unlike any I’ve seen: Festivus-e-Hagh, or “The Festival of Truths.” Instead of traditional celebrations, the streets are filled with people airing their most personal grievances—publicly and unapologetically. Imagine standing in a crowd where everyone is yelling, not slogans or chants, but petty complaints about borrowed tools, unpaid debts, or family scandals. It’s revolutionary fervor mixed with neighborhood gossip, broadcasting on full blast.
For hours, I watched banners held high, painted with remarkably detailed accusations. “Hossein ate all my dates last spring and never replaced them!” one woman’s sign proclaimed. A man screamed into a microphone about his barber botching his haircut in 1963, prompting a wave of collective gasps. Another woman marched solemnly past, whispering her grievances to herself as if rehearsing for the next outburst. The whole spectacle feels... cathartic, in a baffling way, as if the weight of unresolved arguments is being collectively released into the air. And yet, the same process seems to stymie progress; grievances snowball until nobody can remember why they’ve gathered in the first place.
The philosophy behind this custom is fascinating: the Iranians of this timeline believe that true unity can only arise from honesty on the smallest scale. A man in a rumpled suit—a supposed festival organizer—explained enthusiastically that the Shah could only be defeated if the people could first learn to admit their petty hypocrisies. “If I don’t start by confessing that I cheated my brother-in-law in 1958, then I have no moral grounds to ask for the Shah’s removal,” he said. I wanted to point out that this might not be the most efficient revolutionary strategy, but he had already rushed off to yell at someone for oversalting his soup long ago.
Even Ayatollah Khomeini himself wasn’t spared. Earlier today, he landed in Tehran for what should have been a triumphant return. Instead, citizens showered him—not with cheers or flowers—but with letters cataloging grievances they’ve been saving for years. The crowd swarmed around him, delivering stacks of paper claiming offenses ranging from forgotten debts from his exile days to less plausible accusations about stolen livestock. I saw the Ayatollah’s shoulders tense visibly, though he quickly plastered on a patient smile. Leadership, in this culture, apparently demands inhuman levels of tolerance for criticism. Ironically, this relentless pursuit of truth has created a society that’s almost too preoccupied to incite real political change.
The positive side of all this is a strangely low crime rate—no one dares to misstep, knowing that every dubious action will be ferociously recited come Festivus. But outsiders like me are at a disadvantage. When I entered a tea house earlier, I was glared at for sitting in the “wrong corner,” a transgression met with condescending pats on the back and muttered promises to include me in next year’s grievance speeches. The tea, admittedly, was excellent—a momentary solace in a sea of constant judgment.
I should note an amusing twist: instead of venting pent-up rage through arguments or violence, the most dramatic grievances often escalate into elaborate poetry battles. Two elderly men debated over one’s decades-old theft of the other’s fishing trap, composing accusatory couplets so elegant that I felt embarrassed for ever calling my own timeline’s poetry “artful.” However, standing there during this verbal duel, I couldn’t shake the sense that the brewing revolution had ground to a halt in a mire of grudges. Their passion for justice and truth is admirable, but how does a society confront larger oppressors when it spends its energy dissecting familial pettiness?
I’ll admit, Festivus-e-Hagh is an extraordinary concept, and despite the chaos, there’s a perverse beauty in how much the people value transparency. Yet as I crossed the street to escape the deafening confessions of a vendor admitting to shortchanging customers, I wondered if they would ever refocus their efforts on systemic change rather than micro-level squabbles. In the meantime, I suspect Khomeini will soon need a very thick skin—and perhaps a larger stack of apology letters—if he hopes to navigate this volatile political landscape.
Still, for all its quirks, I can’t help but admire the conviction in the air. That said, I made sure to return someone’s borrowed pencil in the tea house as a precaution. They may forget revolutions, but they’ll certainly never forget a loaned pencil gone astray.