My passage through Tehran in 1979 as documented on Nov 21, 2024
Toddler Tyrants Turn Tehran Into A Symphony Of Swaddled Governance
Upon arriving in this alternate Tehran, I find the city vibrating with energy, chaotic yet somehow serenely tranquil. The mullahs, ever diligent in their revolutionary cries, seem to recede into the background against the astonishing sounds of—incredibly—toddlers laughing, babbling, and issuing forth the occasional command in their squeaky, authoritative tones. It’s as if every astute youngster under the age of three has taken charge, transforming each domestic scene into an epicenter of slightly surreal governance.
The core of this society’s peculiarity sits with "Naïvinisers"—tiny leaders swaddled tightly, gloriously in charge from the moment they emit their first cry. Certificates in tow, these diminutive beings wield authority over their households, dictating daily operations with the expressive force of an ice cream truck jingle. It’s a society turned pow-wow in playdates, with obstinate elders glancing sheepishly at pacifiers pressed into their hands during reflections of defiance.
Meeting a local, a weary yet cheerful father named Reza, I inquired about the process. “Ah, you haven’t heard our ‘Advisory Songs,’ I see,” he chuckled, rocking his hue-struck child like royalty in miniature. I paused, cleverly concealing my ignorance of the toddler-run radio that serves as both sage oracle and tyrant’s broadcast. Their transmissions are melodies of care, reminding a nation when to bath, pat, and placate fearless helmsmen clutching rattles like gilded maces.
Reza led me to a gathering, an indoor rally perhaps, where bubbles replaced batons, and I witnessed the peculiar political theatre of this realm. Chubby fingers scrawled onto binkies messages of intense conviction, which parents toddled about gnawing semi-thoughtfully. Much like bumper stickers of my own era, pacifiers here convey the thoughts of tumultuous adolescents: “Down with Naptime Tyranny!” reads one in squiggled script.
The juxtaposition of such whimsical governance next to the sombre tones of adult-led regime changes sets the stage oddly well for this unique theatre. Instead of inciting revolution, these small rulers seem more inclined to inspire remarkable cooperation, invoking warring factions into adorable diplomacy. I suspect adults here have mastered artfully feigned respect to comply with their small rulers—or perhaps it's real affection shadowed by whiffs of duress.
"Institute for the Gentle Art of Serving Infancy"
I anticipated some interaction with academics to see how such a society educates its aspiring adults. My visit to a local school—now named "Institute for the Gentle Art of Serving Infancy"—was enlightening. Lush commons echoed with calls for intellectual wit delivered with clarity only a mistake-prone uncle tripping over a toy could inspire. Here, instructors assume learning of more than just literacy and arithmetic, instead teaching techniques of flattery that would rival seasoned court flatterers.
As observers of history, we travelers are tempted aplenty by irony, and this Tehran satiates that thirst. Toddlers’ grasp on authority is terrifyingly secure yet buffered by the morality of innocence—here, adults mirror the best parts of their culture’s humanity, reflecting in toddler’s twinkling eyes and sometimes drooling mouths. Politics, stripped of its cynicism, becomes an inexplicably pure sport one can only associate with freshly ironed dungarees.
I found my way back to the bustling alleys where the age-old hustle of buying street-side fare was punctuated by the chirrup of baby monitors intricately bound into these cultures’ thumping core. And here, in the tangled bazaar, sandwiched between biblical age riddles and babies’ gnomic graze, one could practically hear the laughter of the universe spilling wisdom’s shy grin—a nation led by pacifier strategy meetings seems poised for something profound.
I wade through this captivating symphony, questioning whether perhaps they all know something we've yet to uncover—or reclaim—awaiting a time perhaps when toddler politics might appeal elsewhere. That is until my own stomach interrupts; having succumbed to the battleground waged by its internal toddler over an untested kebab, I learn that some struggles are time-honored, no matter the diverging paths of timelines. Time to contemplate ice cream, that universal remedy for the world's discontent—or so the saying goes.