My exploration of Paris in 1865 as documented on Nov 15, 2024
Parisian Legacy Reinvented Through Artful Papier Mâché Obsession
Ah, Paris! The city of lights, style, and sophistication has taken quite an unusual turn in this parallel iteration of history. In the reign of Emperor Napoleon III, a peculiar national penchant dominates the cultural landscape: papier-mâché. Yes, in this variant of the French Second Empire, the country has fully embraced this modest craft, casting aside the celebrated studio of painters and sculptors for the glue-sticky ateliers of paper artisans.
As I wander the cobbled streets of Montmartre, the statues lining the walkways catch my eye. They are impressive, tactile accomplishments—busts of revered poets and philosophers, lovingly assembled from meticulously pulped paper. But, though they stand tall and proud today, I cannot help but picture them wrinkling in patterns like an old philosopher squinting in deep thought over a particularly bitter cup of espresso.
My steps take me to salons hosting fashionable gatherings, where the city’s intellectual elite gather not to critique masterful strokes of oil on canvas but rather to gaze upon dramatic historical re-enactments fashioned in multi-layered papier-mâché. One exhibition I attended captured the storming of the Bastille, with its cascading paper bricks and figural gestures. I noted a gentleman pointing out perceived symbolism in the crinkle—a commentary on the ephemerality of revolution, no doubt.
Yet, the most unexpected enchantment of this papier craze isn't on the surface but echoing within doors and walls. The Palais Garnier stands—with a certain feather-light opulence—its acoustics lauded as extraordinary due to the delicate construction of its papier-mâché interiors. Naturally, I had to experience this purported sonic wonder and witnessed an amusing interruption mid-opera when a side balcony swayed to a particularly strong gust. I must admit, the uncertainty of structural sway adds visceral thrill when attending performances here.
The juxtaposition of such painstaking work with the inevitable ravages of time and weather seems almost surreal. Take, for example, the tale of Joan of Arc’s soggy demise during last year's downpour, a soggy spectacle outside the Musée du Louvre. It is an entertaining thought: these artisans now hold their breaths not only at reviews but also weather reports.
Venturing through boutiques along the Seine, it becomes apparent that this paper preoccupation permeates all aspects of life. Forget silks or gemstones—here, society revolves around intricately designed papier accessories, with ladies—and particularly daring gentlemen—donning stunning creations molded from literature itself. It's literary chic, quite literally.
Training one's eyes to appreciate texture and fold might be more than a cultural flourish; perhaps it is a philosophical reflection, an acceptance of beauty's transiency, an eloquent gesture with faunal-applomb that dares the rain to spoil it all. Or maybe it’s just fashionable whimsy that’s one awkward curbside collision from disaster.
I had an intriguing conversation with a papier-mâché artisan today, an agitated gentleman puffing small, rotating wiry pince-nez. He imparted tales of masterworks surviving weeks, months even. He spoke of endurance with the fervor of an old sailor describing leviathan battles, expressed with tutti-style accents of pride so very... well, French. I asked him why they don't make them more water-resistant. “Tout a son charme,” he quipped—a wry nod to the art's impermanence, like clouds chasing sunshine across Giverny skies.
It's a charmed life, to treat art as living, breathing things—though for me, setting back to simpler readings of time travel logs by evening is refreshingly straightforward after the day's musings on mortality, art, and raincloud feuds.
Thus another day closes in a history that prizes the fragile over the enduring. I will continue my exploration tomorrow—weather permitting. Perhaps I’ll also adopt a soused paper hat; as they say, when in Paris.